A member of the Burgman owners’ forum that I belong to commented that since “Burg” means “Castle” in German (in fact, Burgmann — with 2 ens — is a German surname meaning “man of the castle” or “man of the city”), he was going to call his Burgman “Shirojin.”

I don’t know if such a word already exists in Japanese, but it has a nice ring to it!

A control I can’t say I have even though Ive ridden for over 40 years. Despite my numerous number of offs due to high speed or lack of experience, but I applaud these experts but would caution anyone without that level of expertise to be cautious in their own ability to outperform a factory fitted system like ABS. I did however, the other day have a need of a panic braking system and my 08 Burgman doesn’t have ABS fitted although it does have the linked braking system as fitted as standard. I did apply the left hand dual brake in emergency and the back brake locked up and gave me an interesting situation by locking up and stepping out which I wasn’t ready for.

I was fortunate and my reactions kept the bike upright and no problem but it was the first time Id locked the back wheel since I can’t remember causing me, now I do it was a 150cc Lambretta that caused me some consternation when it locked up on the rear brake and I ended up running into the back of a truck at slow speed with my back brake locked and the rear wheel skidding much again to my embarrassment as I damaged the front of the scooter and the front wheel jammed under the rear step of the truck in front locking the wheel under the step of the peoples carrier and my being in a position of not being able to remove it until they pulled forward and released my front wheel..

My note is to those on linked systems i.e. k series 400s and alike. Be aware that linked braking systems are indeed excellent but not foolproof. Its worth a note my k8 when delivered wasn’t the smoothest of the bunch and clanked and banged a little when new but now has calmed down with use and although the clutch uptake is still higher than the 03 its not a problem event though it records 4k on the clutch engage which I challenge.

I guess its nearer 3k and the recorded revs on engaging to be optimistic as the final speed generally tends to be. Anyway the bike is operating well and it seems to be settling in now Ive got a few miles on it. In comparison with the 03 its got more grunt at lower revs and wants to go faster when the open road calls but until I get the first service done I will keep the revs down.

Having said that, when I ride one of my two wheelers and it has a handle bar kill switch, that is how i stop the motor, then i turn the ignition off and remove the key if I leave the steed unattended in a public parking area.

Another benefit the handlebar kill switch affords is the ability to quickly stop the motor, w/o removing your hand from the hand grip.

One disadvantage to using this switch instead of the key only, if you turn the motor off with the kill switch and forget to turn the ignition off with the key, you will drain the battery flat. i know, I’ve done it many times on various two wheelers, including my Super 9, and i did it quite a few times with the People 150 I used to own/ride.

Both those scooters, the head light only turns on after the motor is running so stopping the motor with the kill switch and leaving the ignition on with the key, the head light wont stay on to remind you to turn the key to the off position.

1. At what point should this belt be checked or replaced?

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=+site:www.tradebit.com+kymco+manuals , the belt on the X-500 needs to be checked, not replaced every 12,000 miles. This is also listed in the owner’s manual. Most other manufactures state that belts should be replaced at a specific interval, usually around 12,000 miles or so. The Yamaha Majesty even has a light in the dash that comes on at 12,000 miles telling you to have the belt replaced. Why Kymco only requires a inspection instead of a replacement I don’t know.

2. What are the possible problems that could occur?

As far as replacing the belt it doesn’t look like too difficult a job. My X-500 only has 2300 miles on it right now. At the recommended 12,000 miles I’ll pull the drive belt cover off and measure the belt the way it shows in the manual. If it is out of specs I will replace it.

3. What are the symptoms of a belt going bad?

I would guess that when the belt is worn it will begin to slip and the RPMs at a given speed will start to rise higher than it would normally be at that same speed. Or maybe the belt just snaps and leaves you stranded in the middle of nowhere. If you only use your scooter around town you could probably ride it until the belt breaks. Then call a friend with a pickup to come rescue you. But if you use your scooter for long distance rides I would just replace it every 12,000 miles or so just to be safe.

4. What are some places/internet-sites that a belt could be purchased other than a Kymco Dealer?

I have seen after market belts listed for the X-500 here, http://www.scootertrap.com/Xciting500.htm
but as you can see they are $170.00. I’m going to guess that the OEM Kymco belt is much
cheaper and probably just as durable.

5. Is it better to get another brand of belt rather than a Kymco and if so why?

I’m going to give you my 2 cents worth about Kymco parts. Kymco builds a very nice product and the parts they use, almost all of which they make themselves, a rare thing nowadays, are first rate. Meaning they are on par with what you would get from one of the big Japanese motorcycle companies, only much less expensive. Kymco parts are not poorly manufactured Chinese crap. And even though Taiwan is just off the coast of China, companies in Taiwan build parts nothing like those in China. Many years ago I would buy machine tools from Taiwan and the tools where and I’m sure still are first rate, unlike those made in China. Before I would go looking at aftermarket parts, even those made in the good old US of A, that claim to be superior
in some way to the OEM Kymco parts I would want to see some type of proof and not just an opinion of them being better before I would pay a premium price for them. In other words I would stick with OEM parts which will in the case of Kymco, probably be less expensive
and just as good.

As for the size of the bike you are going to ride it not carry it. With the motor off as long as you can comfortably push the bike about on level ground and handle the weight on and off the
stands the size does not matter. I have ridden many bikes at 1000 pounds and I am also 5-7. It is easer to learn on a small bike and caused less damage when you drop it. On the road a heaver
bike is more stable and once rolling and the feet are up the weight is all balanced.

You should however have an inseam number larger than the seat height number to be comfortable and this is an advantage with the Virago and most cruisers. I have had to tip toe many tall bikes over the years and this would not be good for a new rider. Heavy boots can help but there is a lot to be said for having a machine that fits you. Go set on the bikes/scooter you like and see what feels right.

Pros:
Solid design.
Large storage.
Very nimble and quick.
Steady at high speeds.
KYMCO reliability.

Cons:
Small gas tank.
Hard seat.
High seat.
Cramped seating.
Short windscreen makes for noisy ride at high speeds.

Truly a great bike and fun to ride. The digital dash let’s you switch between kilometers
and miles. The electric folding mirrors are a fun and practical for storage. The bike is so
very solid and nimble when riding. You can mod the seat and the windscreen for better
comfort if you ride longer.