Step 1: Make sure you have the engine kill switch selected (check image below for more information)
Step 2:Next step is to remove the light and cell phone charger jack. Remove the screws securing the battery cover and carburettor cover. Remove the 4 bolts securing the “met-in” box and lift it out to the scooter.
Step 3: View the seat/ “met-in” box removed
Step 4: Remove the screws and small plastic panels on both sides
Step 5: Remove 2 bolts holding black plastic to the frame. Remove 2 screws near gas cap. Remove screw in colored plastic at the body seam and the screw attaching colored plastic to black plastic in engine compartment.
Step 6: Remove black plastic piece (with lid to gas cap) and replace gas cap.
Step 7: Note the flexibility of the colored plastic body. This will allow for removal of the valve cover in a bit.
Step 8: The part circled in red is the valve cover. This is what must be removed before you can inspect valves.
Removal of the valve cover requires the removal of 4 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 hoses.
The top 2 bolts and top hose can be seen in this picture. (circled in green)
Step 9: Now to the bottom right half of the valve cover. Remove the bolt and hose. The bolts and nuts can be removed with standard wrenches.
Step 10: Remove the 4th bolt and two nuts on the bottom left of the valve cover.
You will probably observe the valve cover separate from the cylinder head a bit. A little oil may drip from the now separated parts.
Now on to the trickiest part of the job, removing the valve cover from the bike. To do this, push down on the back half of the bike to change the orientation of the engine relative to the frame. Whilst you are doing this with you right hand, try to wiggle valve cover free with your left. Flex the colored body plastic (not too much) to make a gap a gap for the cover to slip through. This may take several tries, but you will get it eventually. Just think of the time saved by not taking all the body plastic off.
Step 11: Next get the engine to stop dead center. To do this you will have to turn the engine by hand while you look at the two visual indicators.
Begin by removing the three bolts holding the chrome piece onto the crank case. (note that oil filer is dangerously close to one of the bolts. Make sure the oil filer is blocked when removing the bolts to prevent bolts from dropping into your engine.) Remove the circular hatch (upper left) part with a screw driver.
Step 12: Sandwiched between the fly wheel and the chrome plate you just removed is small easy to loose part. (see spring next to it.)
Step 13: With a 19mm sprocket, begin rotating the engine clockwise.
Step 14: The engine will be at “TDC” when the “T” mark on the flywheel aligns with the index mark on the case and the circle timing chain sprocket is visible.
Step 15: Select the blade on a feeler guage with a thickness of 0.1mm and slide into the gap as shown. If the blade will not fit the gap, the gap is too tight and must be let out 0.1mm.
If the blade is not be contacted on both sides, the gap is too big and must be closed 0.1mm
If its clear that the blade is being contacted both sides and passed through the gap with a small amount of friction, you are in good shape.
Step 16: If the valves need adjustment loosen the nut (see image below) and either unscrew or screw by hand until the proper gap is reached. Hold the adjusting screw in place with an adjustable wrench while you tighten down the nut.
Inspect the gap with feeler gauge to ensure the gap did not change while you where tightening the nut down.
Step 17: You may want to get an extra gasket on hand before you do your adjustment. Although the seal is rubber and reusable, it does wear out over time and can be damaged in the process. You never know exactly what you are going to find out when the cover is off so its better to be prepared.
Thats it! You just saved $100+ and now you know even more about the scooter you love. Now if you kept everything organized assembly should be quick and painless.
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